Best Door Mat Ever!

    Every dog owner knows the drill… The dog begs to go out in the pouring rain and then prances back inside, depositing water, mud, dirt and those annoying paw prints all over clean floors. Mounds of towels by the door and the world’s biggest doormat are no match for the wet dog… But the SOGGY DOGGY DOORMAT is!

    SOG73222

    Soggy Doggy Door Mat

    Super-absorbent, durable,
    microfiber chenille!

    The expansive surface area is the secret to microfiber chenille’s tremendous absorbing power and super-fast drying!

    Makes a great gift for a dog lover!

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    Keep Pets Safe During the Holidays

    Working as an emergency vet for over a decade makes you realize that the holidays are a target rich environment for your pet to end up in the emergency room.  The following are a few simple steps you can take to prevent such expensive accidents because no one wants to end up in the emergency room over the holidays!

    • Keep all food and trash away from pets at all times – I can’t tell you how many times a large breed dog (Labs!) end up sneaking the entire turkey off the counter or pulling the carcass out of the trash and it makes them really sick.  The drawback to animals eating people food is that their GI track is not used to it and it will likely cause vomiting and diarrhea.  The large amount of food and/or fat can also start up a bout of pancreatitis which can be deadly.  Bones usually dissolve but occasionally cooked bones can splinter and perforate the digestive track or if they eat a very large amount, become stuck and cause an obstruction.
    • Human food can be toxic to pets – Just because we enjoy holiday food does not mean you should share it with your pet, lots of human foods are toxic to pets. Onions, garlic, chocolate, desserts containing Xylitol, macadamia nuts, grapes, and raisins.
    • Decorations – They look great on the tree but not so much when I’m surgically extracting them from the intestines. Ribbons and tinsel are especially dangerous for cats, the ribbon can get stuck under the tongue and then they swallow the ribbon. As it sits there the intestines try and move the ribbon down the digestive track but it can’t move so it ends up sawing through the intestines instead.  Real mistletoe and holly are very poisonous to cats.  Poinsettias are not as toxic as perceived, they usually just cause mild intestinal upset.
    • Taking pets to relatives houses – Every holiday without exception I’m usually trying to piece back together a little dog that visited a relative’s house and tried to act like he was boss. The smaller dogs have big attitudes but usually end up getting really hurt because they (or the dog they are visiting) have not been properly socialized.  Sadly many dogs have been killed this way and it’s really not the way you plan to spend the holidays.
    • Boarding and Traveling – don’t wait until the last minute to make arrangements for boarding, any good facility should require current vaccines. If you are traveling to a different state, country, or if you are flying you may need a health certificate which also requires current vaccines and a visit to your veterinarian within 10 days of travel.  If traveling in the car make sure to always have updated identification on the pet’s collar and a microchip in case they escape from the car, hotel, or rest area.

    Hopefully these tips will save you from a stressful event for you and your pet over the holidays!  However, make sure to have a local vet ER number handy just in case.  If leaving your pet with a sitter, it is also a good idea for you to make payment arrangements in case they have to take your pet into the vet.

    Whether you’re entertaining at home, traveling with pets, boarding them, or leaving them home with a sitter, take note of these important safety precautions.

    Dec 20, 2013

    By Greg McClure

    VETERINARY ECONOMICS

    Whether you are leaving your pets at home or traveling with them over the holidays, planning is the key to ensuring their safety, a Purdue University veterinarian says.

    “The last thing any pet owner wants on Christmas or New Year’s is to rush their pet to the animal emergency room,” says Lorraine Corriveau, a pet wellness veterinarian at Purdue’s College of Veterinary Medicine. “The truth is that many pets can be injured or poisoned during the holidays unless their owners take proper preventive measures.”

    Animals that travel by air are required to have a health certificate from a federally accredited veterinarian within 10 days of the flight. Corriveau says pet owners should bring medical and vaccination records as well as their own pet food. They also should research pet-friendly hotels and parks and try to keep their pets on the same schedule to minimize stress.

    Those who will be driving with their pets to a holiday destination should use a carrier or a harness to ensure the pet’s safety as well others’ safety while driving. Some pets may benefit from a mild sedative to help with travel. This should be discussed with your veterinarian to decide what drug is best for your pet. Corriveau recommends that the drug should be tested on the pet in advance to make sure it has the desired effect.

    If pet owners decide to board their pets, Corriveau offers the following tips:

    > Ask to visit/tour the facility.

    > Does your pet have special needs? Can the kennel care for those needs?

    > Check to see if there is a veterinarian associated with the kennel.

    > Take note of how they handle the animals and the facility’s cleanliness.

    > Ask the staff about the services they offer and if there are structured daily activities.

    “If your dog hasn’t been at a kennel for a while, and you’re leaving on a long-term vacation, it’s probably best to board your dog for a night or two before you go to get them used to it,” Corriveau says.

    Another option is having someone come and pet sit at your residence.

    If you decide to do this, Corriveau presents some advice:

    > Ask the sitter to come multiple times a day or stay at your home with the pet.

    > Get references.

    > Search for certified professional pet sitters, or ask your veterinarian if he or she can recommend someone who offers this service.

    > Find out if the caretaker is insured.

    > Have a contact number for emergencies.

    Even when owners don’t travel, holidays can be dangerous for pets. Homes should be pet-proofed when holiday decorations are out.

    “Ribbons, shiny tinsel and noise-making ornaments are especially attractive and hazardous to cats,” Corriveau says. “Keep an eye on electrical cords to ensure puppies and kittens don’t chew on them.

    “Decorative plants also are a source of danger. Mistletoe and holly can cause vomiting and lilies are often deadly to cats. Poinsettias, despite their reputation, are not deadly and often cause little more than mild stomach upset.”

    Food also can be a problem for pets.

    “Poultry bones, especially cooked, have potential to both break off and cause a perforation of the digestive tract, or if large amounts are consumed, could cause an obstruction,” Corriveau says.

    She says other foods to avoid include grapes and raisins, excessively salty foods, foods flavored with onion or garlic powder, desserts and sweets containing Xylitol, and chocolates.

    When pet owners host family and friends for large holiday gatherings, they should take their pets’ anxiety level into account.

    “It might be best to keep pets confined if they are overly anxious,” Corriveau says. “Also, monitor people going in and out of the front door. Pets might take advantage and try to escape.”

    Corriveau says keeping emergency contact information close is a good idea.

    “Keep phone numbers for your veterinarian and the local animal emergency hospital handy,” she says. “A quick call to either of them can give you life-saving advice or even help you avoid a trip to the ER.

    M. H. Archer, DVM
    Loveland Veterinary House Call

     

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    Animal Assistance Award Winner Announced

    Categories: Assistance Award

    We’re happy to announce that the latest recipient of our $250.00 Animal Assistance Award for is:

    Westie Rescue of California, El Cajon, CA

    We would like to commend the staff at WRCA for their tireless efforts in promoting the Westie Diet in doing so relieving the suffering of many dogs with skin allergies. This applies to Westies and other breeds.

    Best regards and keep up the good work!

    Rescue Pet Supply Staff

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    Cold Weather Pet Safety

    Categories: Pet Tips
    Here are some tips to keep your pets safe during cold weather:
    Winter wellness: Has your pet had his/her preventive care exam (wellness exam) yet?  Cold weather may worsen some medical conditions such as arthritis. Your pet should be examined by a veterinarian at least once a year, and it’s as good a time as any to get him/her checked out to make sure (s)he is ready and as healthy as possible for cold weather.
    Know the limits:  Just like people, pets’ cold tolerance can vary from pet to pet based on their coat, body fat stores, activity level, and health. Be aware of your pet’s tolerance for cold weather, and adjust accordingly. You will probably need to shorten your dog’s walks in very cold weather to protect you both from weather-associated health risks. Arthritic and elderly pets may have more difficulty walking on snow and ice and may be more prone to slipping and falling. Long-haired or thick-coated dogs tend to be more cold-tolerant, but are still at risk in cold weather. Short-haired pets feel the cold faster because they have less protection, and short-legged pets may become cold faster because their bellies and bodies are more likely to come into contact with snow-covered ground. Pets with diabetes, heart disease, kidney disease, or hormonal imbalances (such as Cushing’s disease) may have a harder time regulating their body temperature, and may be more susceptible to problems from temperature extremes. The same goes for very young and very old pets. If you need help determining your pet’s temperature limits, consult your veterinarian.

    Provide choices: Just like you, pets prefer comfortable sleeping places and may change their location based on their need for more or less warmth. Give them some safe options to allow them to vary their sleeping place to adjust to their needs.

    Stay inside. Cats and dogs should be kept inside during cold weather. It’s a common belief that dogs and cats are resistant than people to cold weather because of their fur, but it’s untrue. Like people, cats and dogs are susceptible to frostbite and hypothermia and should be kept inside. Longer-haired and thick-coated dog breeds, such as huskies and other dogs bred for colder climates, are more tolerant of cold weather; but no pet should be left outside for long periods of time in below-freezing weather.
    Make some noise: A warm vehicle engine can be an appealing heat source for outdoor and feral cats, but it’s deadly. Check underneath your car, bang on the hood, and honk the horn before starting the engine to encourage feline hitchhikers to abandon their roost under the hood.
    Check the paws: Check your dog’s paws frequently for signs of cold-weather injury or damage, such as cracked paw pads or bleeding. During a walk, a sudden lameness may be due to an injury or may be due to ice accumulation between his/her toes. You may be able to reduce the chance of iceball accumulation by clipping the hair between your dog’s toes.
    Play dress-up: If your dog has a short coat or seems bothered by the cold weather, consider a sweater or dog coat. Have several on hand, so you can use a dry sweater or coat each time your dog goes outside. Wet sweaters or coats can actually make your dog colder. Some pet owners also use booties to protect their dog’s feet; if you choose to use them, make sure they fit properly.
    Wipe down: During walks, your dog’s feet, legs and belly may pick up deicers, antifreeze, or other chemicals that could be toxic. When you get back inside, wipe down (or wash) your pet’s feet, legs and belly to remove these chemicals and reduce the risk that your dog will be poisoned after (s)he licks them off of his/her feet or fur. Consider using pet-safe deicers on your property to protect your pets and the others in your neighborhood.
    Collar and chip: Many pets become lost in winter because snow and ice can hide recognizable scents that might normally help your pet find his/her way back home. Make sure your pet has a well-fitting collar with up-to-date identification and contact information. A microchip is a more permanent means of identification, but it’s critical that you keep the registration up to date.
    Stay home: Hot cars are a known threat to pets, but cold cars also pose significant risk to your pet’s health. You’re already familiar with how a car can rapidly cool down in cold weather; it becomes like a refrigerator, and can rapidly chill your pet. Pets that are young, old, ill, or thin are particularly susceptible to cold environments and should never be left in cold cars. Limit car travel to only that which is necessary, and don’t leave your pet unattended in the vehicle.
    Prevent poisoning: Clean up any antifreeze spills quickly, as even small amounts of antifreeze can be deadly. Make sure your pets don’t have access to medication bottles, household chemicals, potentially toxic foods such as onions, xylitol (a sugar substitute) and chocolate.
    Protect family: Odds are your pet will be spending more time inside during the winter, so it’s a good time to make sure your house is properly pet-proofed. Use space heaters with caution around pets, because they can burn or they can be knocked over, potentially starting a fire. Check your furnace before the cold weather sets in to make sure it’s working efficiently, and install carbon monoxide detectors to keep your entire family safe from harm. If you have a pet bird, make sure its cage is away from drafts.
    Avoid ice: When walking your dog, stay away from frozen ponds, lakes and other water. You don’t know if the ice will support your dog’s weight, and if your dog breaks through the ice it could be deadly. And if this happens and you instinctively try to save your dog, both of your lives could be in jeopardy.
    Provide shelter: We don’t recommend keeping any pet outside for long periods of time, but if you are unable to keep your dog inside during cold weather, provide him/her with a warm, solid shelter against wind. Make sure that they have unlimited access to fresh, non-frozen water (by changing the water frequently or using a pet-safe, heated water bowl). The floor of the shelter should be off of the ground (to minimize heat loss into the ground) and the bedding should be thick, dry and changed regularly to provide a warm, dry environment. The door to the shelter should be positioned away from prevailing winds. Space heaters and heat lamps should be avoided because of the risk of burns or fire. Heated pet mats should also be used with caution because they are still capable of causing burns.
    Recognize problems: If your pet is whining, shivering, seems anxious, slows down or stops moving, seems weak, or starts looking for warm places to burrow, get them back inside quickly because they are showing signs of hypothermia. Frostbite is harder to detect, and may not be fully recognized until a few days after the damage is done. If you suspect your pet has hypothermia or frostbite, consult your veterinarian immediately.
    Be prepared: Cold weather also brings the risks of severe winter weather, blizzards and power outages. Prepare a disaster/emergency kit, and include your pet in your plans. Have enough food, water and medicine (including any prescription medications as well as heartworm and flea/tick preventives) on hand to get through at least 5 days.
    Feed well: Keep your pet at a healthy weight throughout the winter. Some pet owners feel that a little extra weight gives their pet some extra protection from cold, but the health risks associated with that extra weight don’t make it worth doing. Watch your pet’s body condition and keep them in the healthy range. Outdoor pets will require more calories in the winter to generate enough body heat and energy to keep them warm – talk to your veterinarian about your pet’s nutritional needs during cold weather.
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    Use of Sildenafil in the treatment of Pulmonary Hypertension in Dogs

    Categories: Pet Med Articles

    Pulmonary arterial hypertension (PH) is an increase in the pressure within the arteries that supply the lungs. PH can be secondary to a variety of causes, including severe acquired left sided heart disease, certain congenital heart diseases, heartworm disease, pulmonary thromboembolism (blood clot) or any type of primary lung disease. Some of these causes are reversible, but others are not. Mild pulmonary hypertension does not cause any clinical signs. If pulmonary hypertension is severe, it can lead to symptoms, such as respiratory difficulty, syncope (fainting), exercise intolerance, and cyanosis (blue discoloration of gums/tongue).

    Non-invasive diagnosis of pulmonary hypertension is possible by performing an echocardiogram (ultrasound of the heart). Additional tests can be performed to help identify the primary cause of the pulmonary hypertension, but in some cases a cause cannot be identified. If an underlying disease process is identified and treatable (pneumonia, for example), it may be possible to improve or even resolve the PH with appropriate therapy. If a primary cause cannot be identified or treated, or if the patient has significant clinical signs associated with pulmonary hypertension, specific therapy directed at the PH can be extremely beneficial. In some patients, oxygen supplementation is very important during the first few days of treatment to help the patient breathe more comfortably.

    Specific medications, such as Sildenafil (Viagra) can be given to help dilate the pulmonary vessels without causing low blood pressure. Severe pulmonary hypertension can carry a poor prognosis, but treatment with Sildenafil (Viagra) and some other similar medications have led to significant improvements or resolution of clinical signs in many patients.

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    What is Osteoarthritis in Pets?

    Categories: Pet Med Articles

    What is Osteoarthritis in Pets?

    Osteoarthritis is a chronic degenerative disease that may affect any joint but is commonly found in a pet’s hip, elbow, shoulder, stifle (knee) , carpus (wrist), hock (ankle) or intervertebral joints (in the spine). It occurs when cartilage in the joint is damaged, either following a traumatic event or with wear and tear that increases in athletic animals, obese animals, or when the joint is congenitally abnormal.

    Cartilage decreases joint stress by reducing impact on the ends of the bones in joints, like a gelatinous shock absorber. When cartilage is damaged, a cascade of inflammatory changes occurs, eventually leading to destruction of the cartilage and subsequent damage to the underlying bone. Cartilage contains no nerves – if your pet is showing any signs of pain, the damage and changes in underlying bone have already begun.
    Signs of arthritis include:

    • Reluctance totake walks of usual length
    • Stiffness (thatmay disappear once the pet has ‘warmed up’)
    • Difficultyclimbing stairs, climbing in the car, on the bed or a sofa
    • Difficultyrising from rest
    • Limping
    • Abnormal gait
    • Licking of asingle joint
    • Actingwithdrawn, spending less time playing with family (which is often misunderstood as a sign of ‘aging’)
    • Soreness when touched
    • Rarely, aggression when touched or approached

    What can I do?

    • WeightReduction: Ask your doctor about your pet’s body condition score (BCS), which shouldbe normal (5/9) or slightly underweight (4/9). If your pet isoverweight, discuss a weight loss diet with your veterinarian.
    • ControlledExercise: Low-impact exercise is best; swimming or walking through shallow water isideal. Leash walking and controlled jogging are also acceptable.
    • Nutraceuticals: Synergistic combinations of nutraceuticals such as glucosamine/chondroitin sulfate contain compounds that support cartilage structure, prevent furtherdeterioration, suppress inflammation, and reduce free radical damage.
    • InjectableChondroprotective Agent: Talk to your veterinarian aboutan injectable agent that may also help preserve cartilage in the joints.
    • Acupuncture andMassage:Both of these therapies may provide additional non-drug pain control.

    Prescription Drugs: Drugs are available that can reduce inflammation and suppress pain in dogs with more advanced disease. Side effects can be minimized by monitoring your dog’s blood work regularly.

    M. H. Archer, DVM
    Loveland Veterinary House Call

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    Traveling with your Pets

    Categories: Pet Med Articles

    Emergency visits and traveling

    We often go on vacations or trips requiring extra preparations for our pets. This preparation will help you when unexpected events occur. Here are a few things that can be done to make sure that you are not caught off guard, or if you are, it is less stressful.

    When leaving your pet with someone while you go on a trip, make sure that person or facility has a copy of your vaccination records for each pet. Also, you should have a signed permission to treat form in case of emergency with an amount that cannot be exceeded without contacting you. Make sure your relationship is such that your pet sitter or boarding facility knows that they should get emergency care when necessary. Also, use your judgment when selecting someone who would be qualified at determining what is wrong.

    When traveling with your pets, you should carry or have copies of veterinary records and a health certificate for your pets when necessary. Having copies of veterinary records is imperative even if you are traveling within the state. This because the importance of an up to date rabies shot cannot be emphasized enough. When traveling in state, if your pet gets sick and you have to make a veterinary visit, if you have the records it will make the visit less stressful and prevents unnecessary vaccinations if your regular veterinary office cannot be reached. Secondly, when traveling out of state, you are supposed to get a health certificate for all traveling animals. This is required when flying with a pet, but it is strongly encouraged when driving with that pet. If you do not get a health certificate, you should carry the veterinary records of most recent vaccinations with you. This will help if you are stopped by a police officer or other state official or if you have to make a veterinary visit.

    Whether you are at home or traveling, emergencies can happen. You can do a few key things to help the process when an emergency occurs and during the process to decrease the stress. If you are not going to your regular hospital, take a copy of your most recent veterinary records that show proof of vaccinations, especially rabies. Some hospitals will not see patients that do not have proof of vaccinations or require rabies and other vaccinations before the visit. This is imperative in cases of animal-human bites with lack of rabies. Without vaccinations your pet may be quarantined or euthanized without your permission depending on the state or county policy. The veterinarian will have a policy or at least obey state laws for this situation.

    The best advice if you are worried about your pet is to call your veterinarian or a veterinarian several hours before close of the business day. If your pet is sick, do not wait until the end of the business day to call about receiving care. You know how it is at the end of the workday. Think about whether you would want to stay an extra 2 or 3 hours if a customer just showed up right before close. This is rude and, often, you knew your pet was sick before 12pm on Saturday or 5 or 6pm on a weeknight. Therefore, expect that you may be told to go to the emergency clinic if you call or show up right before closing time. Unfortunately, when you do not have a relationship with that veterinary hospital, you are more likely be told to go to the emergency clinic than if they know you. Remember, most veterinary clinics or hospitals are small businesses that run on daily revenue. They are less likely to pay people to stay after hours if they don’t know you and can be assured that you will pay for services or agree to care if they do stay open for an extra hour.

    If you have to go to a veterinary emergency clinic, expect to spend at least $350 to $500 dollars. Emergency clinics often have a minimum office visit fee that is often 2 to 3 times what a regular hospital charges. They will do more diagnostics than your regular vet and often cannot reach your regular veterinary hospital which makes having copies of all records important for after hours or holiday emergency visits.

    Other tips for emergency visits to either an emergency clinic or a new vet hospital

    Give a good history and answer all questions as best you can. Sometimes what seem to be insignificant changes or details are actually the key to figuring out what is wrong. Remember this veterinarian does not know your pet like your regular veterinarian does so don’t leave out any details and be as honest as possible.

    Sometimes questions or subjects may be embarrassing to discuss. Even if you are embarrassed by your pet eating underwear, dirty diapers or drugs (prescription or recreational), the veterinarian will be less likely to judge you than you think. Even if he/she does seem shocked, it is irrelevant as you will likely never see him again after your pet is well. Plus, not being up front may result in delayed treatment and even death for your pet. I can tell stories of clients denying something and later changing their original answer several days later. In these situations the best treatment was delayed or not considered for a long period of time. The major consequences of this is a ravaging on your pocketbook and often worsening of your pets health due to delaying the best treatment. Furthermore, if you think that a lawsuit will solve the problem, you will find that an expert witness will likely find in the favor of the veterinarian as you were not upfront on the problem and this delayed or prevented appropriate care.

    Some other things to consider with the visit are:

    1. Always be upfront with the veterinarian about money.

    If you can only spend $500, then tell the office that you will only authorize treatment for up to $500. This will give a good idea of what can be done and the veterinarian can prioritize testing and treatment options.

    2. Get the prognosis compared with the cost.

    During the initial exam, we can often tell how the patient is and get an idea of what needs to be done. The veterinarian will often try to give you an idea of whether the disease is treatable or an end of life situation, unless you spend huge amounts of money.

    The thing that is most heartbreaking to me is when we can treat, but the owner refuses to spend a little bit of money, and the outcome is death without any treatment.

    3. Ask for all of the treatment options.

    Often the veterinarian will have a best way to handle treatment, which is usually more expensive. Sometimes there will be other options that can work, but you need to know how effective these are as well as the cost. The other option for the absolute best care is a referral if the office cannot handle the treatment.

    4. Listen to what the veterinarian is saying.

    In stressful or emergency situations, we often do not follow discussions as well as when we are relaxed. If you are having trouble following what the veterinarian is saying, ask for a moment to be alone and collect your thoughts about what is going on. Get the vet to write the main diagnostic and treatment points down, get an estimate and go over the main points again. Sometimes a decision to stabilize has to be done immediately. In this case, you have to make a decision to spend usually around $200 right then.

    If the veterinarian tells you that you have to treat soon (ASAP) or death will result, this means that you cannot treat the patient at home. If you ask several times and you are still told hospitalization, then you need to understand that hospitalization is the only way. I have told this to clients and explained why. Some have still refused care and then called back trying to know what to do to treat at home. We have had to explain again, we told you this already, your pet has to stay in the hospital to treat this. You have to do this or your pet will not get better. Often you will be asked to sign a form stating that you decline treatment and that you understand what you are doing. This is because the office wants you to understand what you have agreed to. If you are not sure, ask directly about the outcome if you do not treat.

    5. If you cannot treat or will not treat, consider euthanasia.

    Finally, if you are not able to do what is best for the patient and you are not morally opposed to euthanasia, you should consider it as a final option. Unlike in human medicine, where patients can be forced to treat conditions or have less say in treatment, veterinary medicine gives you the option on how to proceed. Consider euthanasia if you are unable to spend the money and it is condition that will result in death. I point this out, because I would not want to die in a huge amount of pain with no treatment if another option were available to me.

    S. Mason, DVM

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    DOG FLU ( DOG INFLUENZA)

    Categories: Pet Med Articles

    Dog Flu

    Back around 2005 I saw my first case of dog flu (canine influenza) in the ER, it hit fast, it hit hard, and within hours the dog or puppy would be dead.  Now a new strain of dog flu has hit the Midwest and last week it moved a little further west to Iowa.  I was planning on writing this blog but when I was researching articles I couldn’t sum it up better than the AVMA did-  Here is their Q&A session about dog flu….Canine influenza (CI), or dog flu, is a highly contagious respiratory infection of dogs that is caused by an influenza A virus. In the U.S., canine influenza has been caused by two influenza strains. The first strain reported in the United States, beginning in 2004, was an H3N8 influenza A virus. This strain is closely related to the virus that causes equine influenza, and it is thought that the equine influenza virus mutated to produce the canine strain. In 2015, an outbreak that started in Chicago was caused by a separate canine influenza virus, H3N2. The strain causing the 2015 outbreak was almost genetically identical to an H3N2 strain previously reported only in Asia – specifically, Korea, China and Thailand. In Asia. This H3N2 strain is believed to have resulted from the direct transfer of an avian influenza virus  – possibly from among viruses circulating in live bird markets – to dogs.

    Two clinical syndromes have been seen in dogs infected with the canine influenza virus—a mild form of the disease and a more severe form that is accompanied by pneumonia.

    • Mild form — Dogs suffering with the mild form of canine influenza develop a soft, moist cough that persists for 10 to 30 days. They may also be lethargic and have reduced appetite and a fever. Sneezing and discharge from the eyes and/or nose may also be observed. Some dogs have a dry cough similar to the traditional “kennel cough” caused by Bordetella bronchiseptica/parainfluenza virus complex. Dogs with the mild form of influenza may also have a thick nasal discharge, which is usually caused by a secondary bacterial infection.
    • Severe form — Dogs with the severe form of canine influenza develop high fevers (104ºF to 106ºF) and have clinical signs of pneumonia, such as increased respiratory rates and effort. Pneumonia may be due to a secondary bacterial infection.

    Q: Are all dogs at risk of getting canine influenza?
    A: Because this is still an emerging disease and dogs in the U.S. have not been exposed to it before, almost all dogs, regardless of breed or age, lack immunity to it and are susceptible to infection if exposed to the active virus. Virtually all dogs exposed to the virus become infected, and nearly 80% show clinical signs of disease, though most exhibit the mild form described above.
    However, the risk of any dog being exposed to the canine influenza virus depends on that dog’s lifestyle. Dogs that are frequently or regularly exposed to other dogs – for example at boarding or day care facilities, dog parks, grooming salons, or social events with other dogs present – are at greater risk of coming into contact with the virus. Also, as with other infectious diseases, extra precautions may be needed with puppies, elderly or pregnant dogs, and dogs that are immunocompromised. Dog owners should talk with their own veterinarian to assess their dog’s risk.

    Q: Do dogs die from canine influenza?
    A: Fatal cases of pneumonia resulting from infection with canine influenza virus have been reported in dogs, but the fatality rate is low (less than 10%). Most dogs recover in 2-3 weeks.

    Q: How widespread is the disease?
    A: The first recognized outbreak of canine influenza in the world is believed to have occurred in racing greyhounds in January 2004 at a track in Florida. From June to August of 2004, outbreaks of respiratory disease were reported at 14 tracks in 6 states (Alabama, Arkansas, Florida, Kansas, Texas, and West Virginia). Between January and May of 2005, outbreaks occurred at 20 tracks in 11 states (Arizona, Arkansas, Colorado, Florida, Iowa, Kansas, Massachusetts, Rhode Island, Texas, West Virginia, and Wisconsin). The canine influenza virus has been reported in at least 30 states and Washington, DC.
    The H3N2 strain of canine influenza virus had been reported in Korea, China and Thailand, but had not been detected outside of those countries until 2015. In April 2015, an outbreak that started in Chicago was determined to be caused by an H3N2 strain that was genetically almost identical to the one one in Asia.

    Q: Is there a vaccine?
    A: The first canine vaccine for H3N8 canine influenza was approved in 2009, and there are several H3N8 canine influenza vaccines available. At this time, there is not an H3N2 vaccine available in the United States, and it is not known whether the H3N8 vaccine will offer any protection against the H3N2 strain. Canine influenza vaccines are considered “lifestyle” vaccines, meaning the decision to vaccinate is based on a dog’s risk of exposure. Dog owners should consult their veterinarian to determine whether vaccination is needed.

    Q: How is a dog with canine influenza treated?
    A: As with any disease caused by a virus, treatment is largely supportive. Good animal care practices and nutrition assist dogs in mounting an effective immune response.
    The course of treatment depends on the pet’s condition, including the presence or absence of a secondary bacterial infection, pneumonia, dehydration, or other medical issues (e.g., pregnancy, pre-existing respiratory disease, compromised immune system, etc.). The veterinarian might prescribe medications, such as an antibiotic (to fight secondary infections) and/or a nonsteroidal anti-inflammatory (to reduce fever, swelling and pain). Dehydrated pets may need fluid therapy to restore and maintain hydration.  Other medications, or even hospitalization, may also be necessary for more severe cases.

    Q: Is canine influenza virus transmissible from dogs to humans?
    A: To date, there is no evidence of transmission of canine influenza virus from dogs to people.

    Q: Is canine influenza virus transmissible from dogs to cats, horses or other animal species?
    A: At this time, there is no evidence of transmission of H3N8 canine influenza from dogs to horses, cats, ferrets, or other animal species. The H3N2 strain, however, has been reported in Asia to infect cats, and there’s also some evidence that guinea pigs and ferrets can become infected.
    Precautions to prevent spread of the virus are outlined below, in the answer to “I work in a kennel/animal care facility. What should I do to prevent transmission of influenza virus from infected dogs to susceptible dogs?”

    Q: Do I need to be concerned about putting my dog in day care or boarding it at a kennel?
    A: Dog owners should be aware that any situation that brings dogs together increases the risk of spread of communicable illnesses. Good infection control practices can reduce that risk, so dog owners involved in shows, sports, or other activities with their dogs or who board their dogs at kennels should ask whether respiratory disease has been a problem there, and whether the facility has a plan for isolating dogs that develop respiratory disease and for notifying owners if their dogs have been exposed to dogs with respiratory disease.
    As long as good infection control practices are in place, pet owners should not be overly concerned about putting dogs in training facilities, dog parks, kennels, or other areas frequented by dogs.

    Q: My dog has a cough…what should I do?
    A: Consult your veterinarian. Coughing can be caused by many different medical problems, and your veterinarian can examine and evaluate your dog and recommend an appropriate course of treatment. If canine influenza is suspected, treatment will usually focus on maximizing the ability of your dog’s immune system to combat the virus. A typical approach might include administration of fluids if your dog is becoming dehydrated and prescribing an antimicrobial if a secondary bacterial infection is suspected.

    Canine influenza virus can be spread via direct contact with respiratory secretions from infected dogs, and by contact with contaminated inanimate objects. Therefore, dog owners whose dogs are coughing or exhibiting other signs of respiratory disease should not participate in activities or bring their dogs to facilities where other dogs can be exposed to them. Clothing, equipment, surfaces, and hands should be cleaned and disinfected after exposure to dogs showing signs of respiratory disease to prevent transmission of infection to susceptible dogs. Clothing can be adequately cleaned by using a detergent at normal laundry temperatures.

    Q: I manage a kennel/veterinary clinic/animal shelter/dog day care center. How do I keep canine influenza out of my facility, and if it does enter my facility, what should I do?
    A: Viral disease is usually best prevented through vaccination. A vaccine against H3N8 canine influenza has been available since 2009. It is considered a “lifestyle” vaccine, which means that the decision to vaccinate a dog against CIV is based on the risk of exposure. A veterinarian should determine whether vaccination is needed based on related risks and benefits, and should administer these vaccinations at least 2 weeks prior to planned visits to dog activity and care facilities (e.g., kennels, veterinary clinics, dog day care centers, training facilities, dog parks). This differs from “core” vaccines – such as distemper, parvo and rabies – that are required for all dogs, regardless of lifestyle.
    Vaccination against other pathogens causing respiratory disease may help prevent more common respiratory pathogens from becoming secondary infections in a respiratory tract already compromised by influenza infection.
    Routine infection control precautions are key to preventing spread of viral disease within facilities. The canine influenza virus appears to be easily killed by disinfectants (e.g., quaternary ammonium compounds and bleach solutions at a 1 to 30 dilution) in common use in veterinary clinics, boarding facilities, and animal shelters. Protocols should be established for thoroughly cleaning and disinfecting cages, bowls, and other surfaces between uses. Employees should wash their hands with soap and water (or use an alcohol-based hand cleaner if soap and water are unavailable) before and after handling each dog; after coming into contact with a dog’s saliva, urine, feces, or blood; after cleaning cages; and upon arriving at and before leaving the facility. (See “I work in a kennel/animal care facility. What should I do to prevent transmission of influenza virus from infected dogs to susceptible dogs?”)
    Animal care facility staff should be alerted to the possibility that a dog with a respiratory infection could be presented for care or boarding. If a dog with respiratory signs is presented, staff members should inquire whether the dog has recently been boarded or adopted from a shelter, has recently participated in dog-related group activities, or has been exposed to other dogs known to have canine influenza or kennel cough. The dog should be brought directly into a separate examination/triage area that is reserved for dogs with respiratory signs and should not be allowed to enter the waiting room or other areas where susceptible dogs may be present.
    Dogs with suspected canine influenza virus infection discovered after entry into the facility should be evaluated and treated by a veterinarian. Isolation protocols should be rigorously applied for dogs showing signs of respiratory disease, including the wearing of disposable gloves by persons handling infected dogs or cleaning contaminated cages. Respiratory disease beyond what is considered typical for a particular facility should be investigated, and the investigation should include submission of appropriate diagnostic samples. (See “What diagnostic tests will tell me whether a dog has canine influenza?”)

    Q: What diagnostic tests will tell me whether a dog has canine influenza? What samples do I send? Where do I send the samples? How do I distinguish between canine influenza and kennel cough?
    A: There is no rapid test for the specific diagnosis of acute canine influenza virus infection. Nasal or throat swabs from dogs that have been ill for less than 4 days may be sent to a diagnostic laboratory for testing. Your veterinarian may also offer other testing, such as an in-house test to detect influenza types A and B.
    Antibodies to canine influenza virus may be detected as early as seven days after onset of clinical signs. Convalescent-phase samples should be collected at least two weeks after collection of the acute-phase sample. If an acute-phase sample is not available, testing a convalescent-phase sample can reveal whether a dog has been infected with or exposed to CIV at some point in the past.
    For dogs that have died from pneumonia or other conditions in which CIV is suspected, additional diagnostic tests are available to your veterinarian through reference laboratories.

    Q: I work in a kennel/animal care facility. What should I do to prevent transmission of influenza virus from infected dogs to susceptible dogs?
    A: Canine influenza is not known to be transmissible from dogs to people. However, caretakers can inadvertently transmit canine influenza virus from infected dogs to susceptible dogs by not following good hygiene and infection control practices. To prevent spread of canine influenza virus, caretakers should take the following precautions:

    • Wash hands with soap and water (if soap and water are unavailable, use an alcohol-based hand cleaner):
      • Upon arriving at the facility
      • Before and after handling each animal
      • After coming into contact with animal saliva, urine, feces or blood
      • After cleaning cages
      • Before eating meals, taking breaks, smoking or leaving the facility
      • Before and after using the restroom
    • Wear a barrier gown over your clothes and wear gloves when handling sick animals or cleaning cages. Discard gown and gloves before working with other animals.
    • Consider use of goggles or face protection if splashes from contaminated surfaces may occur.
    • Bring a change of clothes to wear home at the end of the day.
    • Thoroughly clean clothes worn at the animal facility.
    • Do not allow animals to “kiss” you or lick your face.
    • Do not eat in the animal care area.
    • Separate newly arriving animals from animals that have been housed one week or longer.
    • Routinely monitor animals for signs of illness. Separate sick animals from healthy animals, especially animals with signs of respiratory disease.
    • There is no evidence of transmission of canine influenza virus from dogs to people. However, because of concerns about diseases that are transmissible from dogs to people, in general, it may be prudent for young children, the elderly, pregnant women, and immunocompromised persons to limit or avoid contact with animals that are ill.

    For additional information and updates, please visit these websites:
    Iowa State University Center for Food Security & Public Health
    University of Florida College of Veterinary Medicine
    Cornell University Veterinary Diagnostic Laboratory
    Centers for Disease Control and Prevention
    Association of Shelter Veterinarians

    M. H. Archer, DVM
    Loveland Veterinary House Call

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